1/15/09

1x9 setup is fun

Hey, I just migrated my bike to a 1x9 setup, rode it a couple of times and I can tell you it's definitely cool!

I just wanted to have a simpler bike, and I've been considering removing the granny and outer chainrings from my crankset for a while, but I just did it a few weeks ago. What has been preventing me for doing it earlier was the fear of not having enough gear range for XC, but I just realized it would be OK. I also went through this post which gives plenty of useful information.

Here's a picture showing the whole stuff:


Let's talk about gears.
My crankset is now a single 32 teeth chainring. I have an 11-32 cassette, so the math is easy, I'm ranging from 1 to almost 3 gear ratio. With a regular 22-32-44 crankset and the same cassette, it was ranging from 0.67 to 4 gear ratio. These are obviously not the same ranges but:

1. I basically never use the last two gears at the top end
2. With a bike I enjoy more, I would ride better, and probably not need the last two gears at the bottom end :)
I didn't have to shorten the chain, just have a look a how the rear derailleur is positionned at highest and lowest gears:

Based on what I've read on various posts, a good chain tension is important to prevent chain jumps (not sure what a good chain tension should be, though).

I transformed my XTR crankset into a single speed one by removing the 22 teeth and 44 teeth chainrings.
Biggest issue with 1x9 setups is chain jumps.
I replaced the outer chainring with a BBG Superlight chainguide. I'm using no chainguide on the inner side so far, but I took two actions to prevent the chain from jumping on the inside:

1. I removed the spacer that was installed on the right side of the bottom bracket (this was used to replace an eventual E-type front derailleur) and moved it to the left side. This has the effect of moving the crankset a few millimeters on the left. Thus, the chainline is better aligned and the chain would jump inside less frequently (jumps on the outside are prevented by the chainguide I installed on the crankset).
2. I replaced the regular XTR 32 teeth chainring with a non-ramped, non-pinned Blackspire Mono Veloce chainring. It is said this would have a positive effect on the chain stability, I rode it a couple of times and I can tell it's true.
I considered installing an N-Gear Jump Stop but it wouldn't fit on my frame.

Here is some pictures of the chainguide I installed:


I found it kind of hard to get all those single-speed components (especially if you don't live in the US).
Here are the options available to you if you want a single-speed 32 teeth chainring (based on what I read on various posts):
You'll also probably need a chainguide:
So how did it go on the ground? Pretty well! I love the super-simple bike I'm riding now. No front derailleur, no associated shifter on my handlebar. I realized my rear derailleur shifter is able to shift 4 or 5 gears at one time - so shifting has become simple and easy, you don't have to think about front-rear combinations, just push the shifter lever when it's too hard on your legs!


I rode this setup without a single-speed chainring in the first place, and also because I haven't installed any chainguide on the inside, I had to be careful when going downhill - if I stayed on the lower gears the chain would have jumped out of the chainring in shaky grounds. Having installed a single-speed chainring just dramatically improved chain stability: no chain jumps at all, even when I'm going downhill on lower gears. Actually I think that the chainguide I installed on the outer side of the crankset may not be of any use.

Some additional pictures:

11/21/08

Wheelsets You May Buy

These are some light XC wheelsets, that may be less expensive than others in some cases.

All pictures are at the bottom of this story.

Mavic Crossmax SL
(1520g)
These wheels are cheaper than the ubiquitous SLR and have exactly the same weight according to Mavic specs. 2007 Crossmax SL were already good but 2008 version has new hubs with an outermost bearings placement that allows a gain on stiffness and weight.
There are IS as well as Center Lock disc versions. These are tubeless wheels.

Easton XC One
(1585g)
These wheels seem to be good ones, stiff and light.

Spinergy Xyclone Disc
(1695g)
This famous wheels feature composite spokes which makes them look different than the other wheels, but this may actually be their only advantage.
One or two years ago you could find these wheels at hardly more than 400$ but now prices have gone up despite the fact that the technology hasn't changed and the weight is still the same. It seems that stock bearings are plain shit and should be changed (just type in 'xyclone bearing' in eBay's search box!).
For this, I think these wheels are not really competitive anymore.

DT Swiss XR 1540
(1540g)
These are the wheels you could get from DT Swiss previous years before they were replaced with the lighter XR 1450.
1540g is still very light and you could get those wheels for less than the XR 1450.
I think this is the same kind of wheels than the XR 1450: stiff, fast, no comfort, Center Lock.

Fulcrum Red Metal 1
(1655g)
Much cheaper option than the Red Metal Zero.
You can get those at CenterLock or IS standard. Those wheels are tubeless compatible.

Prices
Here are a few numbers I just got for you:
  • Mavic Crossmax SL - lowest: 570$, 600€ - used: starting at 400€
  • Easton XC One - lowest: 400$, 340€
  • Spinergy Xyclone Disc - lowest: 500$, used: around 300€
  • DT Swiss XR 1540 - lowest: 420€
  • Fulcrum Red Metal 1 - lowest: 427€



Pictures:
Mavic Crossmax SL

Easton XC One

Spinergy Xyclone

DT Swiss XR 1540

Fulcrum Red Metal 1

11/20/08

Formula R1 Brake

Here is the new Formula XC brake.
It is lighter than any other brake, they say 270g per brake.

It seems there are 2 lever blade versions:
  • magnesium
  • carbon
The brake has a black mate finish (master cylinder and caliper) with red bolts, but it seems polished versions are available for some bikes. Check out the pictures below.

The disc is a new lighter design, and a new floating disc is also available. I think that the disk and adaptor kit is sold separately.

Quoting fantaman @ http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=51408
Just like all Formula brakes the R1 will be available aftermarket in pre-bled 85 and 100cm lines for the front and 150 and 165cm for the rear. These kits include the lever, line and caliper. You need to purchase the rotor and adapter kit separate. The R1 rotor sets will include ti rotor and caliper bolts. Kits will be available with a full, albeit weight reduced, stainless rotor or a aluminum carrier with floating stainless braking surface. Using ORO kits will work just fine and will be a little less expensive.











Additional pictures here.


Polished/color versions: